Native plantings

On choosing native plants for a New Jersey garden: first the part that turns out to be conceptually harder than it looks, then some species worth knowing for a few difficult sites.

The goal throughout is a functioning food web rather than a native-themed ornamental border — selecting for what a plant supports rather than for how it looks in a catalogue.

The organising idea is Douglas Tallamy’s: a small number of keystone genera carry a disproportionate share of the insect life, and the insects are what everything above them eats. Quercus, Prunus, Salix, Vaccinium, Amelanchier. Highbush blueberry hosts something like 288 species of Lepidoptera; serviceberry, 124. A Japanese barberry hosts approximately nothing. Once you have seen those numbers it is difficult to look at a suburban foundation planting the same way.

Where “native” stops being obvious

It is a clean-sounding word that turns out to have joints in it, and you find them by trying to act on it.

Native to where? Clethra acuminata, cinnamon clethra, is a superb shrub — exfoliating cinnamon bark, fragrant summer bottlebrushes, real pollinator value. It is also a Southern and Central Appalachian mountain endemic, growing from southwestern Pennsylvania down through the Virginias and Tennessee to northern Georgia, mostly between about 1,600 and 4,600 feet. New Jersey is not in that range. So is it native? “Native” was never a property of a plant simpliciter; it is a relation to a region, and the region has to be fixed by something. A state line is a political artifact and the plants have not heard of it. A physiographic province is better but still coarse. An elevation band within a mountain range is finer still, and by that standard a great many things sold as “native to the eastern US” are strangers here. I have not found a principled place to stop, and I notice that the nursery trade has strong commercial reasons not to look for one.

Native to when? The usual implicit baseline is European contact, which is a historical accident dressed as a natural boundary. Ranges were moving before 1600 and are moving now, faster. A plant creeping north into New Jersey on its own under a warming climate is doing exactly what plants have always done. It is not obvious why the arrivals we happened to witness should count differently from the ones we did not.

One kind or two? Aronia prunifolia, purple chokeberry, is a naturally occurring hybrid of A. arbutifolia and A. melanocarpa, and is sometimes treated as a species in its own right. If both parents are already coming along in the seed flats, is a third Aronia an addition to the planting or a duplicate of what is there? The horticultural question and the taxonomic one turn out to be the same question, and neither the catalogue nor the flora will settle it for you.

How do you know? Deer resistance is the practical case. Most published ratings are compilations of other compilations, and a plant can be listed as resistant for years on the strength of nothing much. Gaultheria procumbens is aromatic in a way deer genuinely dislike — that one I have watched hold. Fleabanes are widely listed as resistant and I do not believe it. The useful distinction is between what a database asserts and what has survived a winter in front of actual deer, and it is worth keeping the two apart in your notes.

Trees and shrubs

  • Amelanchier spp. (serviceberry) — keystone genus, 124 Lepidoptera species. Tolerates part shade and moist soil; white spring flowers, edible fruit, good fall colour. Refined enough in habit for a small-tree or large-shrub position.
  • Vaccinium corymbosum (highbush blueberry) — top-tier keystone, 288 Lepidoptera species. Genuinely shade-tolerant as a native understory shrub; the host value holds in shade even as fruiting drops off. Wants moist, strongly acidic soil, pH 4.5–5.5 — test before planting rather than after. Clumping and non-suckering.
  • Vaccinium pallidum (hillside blueberry) — low colonial shrub, 1–2 ft, running by rhizome into mats. Scarlet fall colour, host for the brown elfin. More tolerant of dry, sandy or rocky ground than V. corymbosum, but wants the brighter fringe rather than closed canopy.
  • Gaylussacia baccata (black huckleberry) — 1–3 ft, spreading by shallow roots into thickets, which makes it useful on a slope. Urn-shaped flowers, orange-crimson in autumn, larval host for Henry’s elfin. Ericaceous like the blueberries but noticeably more sun-hungry.
  • Kalmia latifolia (mountain laurel) — evergreen, spectacular in bloom, deer-resistant by way of being toxic. Thrives in acidic soil under spruces.
  • Viburnum acerifolium (mapleleaf viburnum) — handles deep shade better than almost any native shrub, with exceptional deer resistance and good fall colour.
  • Cephalanthus occidentalis (buttonbush) — spherical white flower heads that look invented, exceptional pollinator value, tolerant of wet feet.
  • Magnolia tripetala (umbrella magnolia) — native understory tree, in New Jersey scattered and in the Pine Barrens. The largest simple leaves of any native eastern tree, 10–24 inches, whorled into an improbably tropical crown. Part shade, moist rich soil.
  • Leucothoe fontanesiana (drooping leucothoe) — arching evergreen for moist shade, deer-resistant.
  • Xanthorhiza simplicissima (yellowroot) — low, dense, spreading; good in shaded moist ground with ferns and foamflower.
  • Aronia prunifolia (purple chokeberry) — see above on its parentage. Salt-, clay- and drought-tolerant, and will also take seasonal standing water, which makes it easier to site than either parent alone.
  • Clethra acuminata (cinnamon clethra) — see above on its range.

Herbaceous

Spring ephemerals. Mertensia virginica (Virginia bluebells), sky-blue trumpets that vanish by early summer — pair with ferns to cover the gap. Trillium spp., slow to establish and worth sourcing only from reputable nurseries, never wild-collected. Jeffersonia diphylla (twinleaf), slow, long-lived, distinctive paired leaves. Delphinium tricorne (dwarf larkspur), blue-violet, deer-resistant by toxicity.

Woodland perennials. Caulophyllum thalictroides (blue cohosh). Actaea racemosa (black cohosh), dramatic white spires and a larval host, though the flowers smell like something died. Aruncus dioicus (goatsbeard). Thalictrum pubescens (tall meadow rue), airy and shade-tolerant.

Sun. Lupinus perennis (wild lupine), sole host of the endangered Karner blue. Baptisia australis (blue wild indigo), long-lived, with inflated seed pods worth having on their own account. Agastache foeniculum (anise hyssop). Heliopsis helianthoides (false sunflower), vigorous enough to hold new ground while ailanthus roots die back underneath it. Oenothera fruticosa (sundrops) and O. biennis (evening primrose), the latter night-blooming and excellent for moths and specialist bees. Thermopsis villosa (Carolina bush pea). Monarda didyma (scarlet bee balm), a hummingbird magnet, prone to mildew. Physostegia virginiana (obedient plant), rhizomatous and useful for filling large openings.

Groundcover and dry shade. This is the hard case — dry, acidic, root-choked soil under conifers, where most things sulk. Polystichum acrostichoides (Christmas fern) is the workhorse; Dryopteris marginalis (marginal wood fern) does much the same. Mitchella repens (partridgeberry), very low, evergreen, slow, refined. Gaultheria procumbens (wintergreen), the reliable deer-resistant one. Eurybia divaricata (white wood aster) thrives in lean root-filled ground where little else persists, and pairs classically with Solidago caesia. Waldsteinia fragarioides (Appalachian barren strawberry) for dry shade. Phlox stolonifera and Chrysogonum virginianum (green and gold) for moist part shade.

Carex pensylvanica (Pennsylvania sedge) deserves its own note as a lawn alternative under trees: fine-textured, rhizomatous, tolerant of dry shade and root competition. It is also essentially impossible to raise from seed — germination stays low and slow even with careful stratification — so it is plugs at roughly 12-inch centres and about two seasons to knit together. Buying enough plugs to cover any real area is expensive, so the sensible route is a mother bed and division over several years. A multi-year project rather than a weekend.

Sourcing

Straight species rather than cultivars wherever possible, since much of the selection that produces a tidier plant also breaks the thing you planted it for. Never wild-collected — this matters especially for Trillium, which is slow enough that collection does real damage. Some cultivars will not come true from seed and have to be bought as plants regardless.

Worth knowing in this region: Bowman’s Hill Wildflower Preserve, Pleasant Run Nursery, Toadshade Wildflower Farm, Izel Native Plants, Rose Valley Nursery.

A note on the list

The reasoning matters more than the species. Soil pH, light, and what the deer will actually do are site-specific enough that a list copied wholesale is worth very little. The transferable part is the habit of checking: test the soil before buying ericaceous shrubs, distinguish what you have read from what you have watched, and treat “native” as a question rather than a label.

Species notes compiled 2026. The botany here does not date — a highbush blueberry will still be hosting 288 species of Lepidoptera in twenty years — but the nurseries above are the part most likely to age, so check before you drive.